Een beetje trots

Het geeft voldoening als je voorgevoel juist blijkt te zijn. Al twee jaar volg ik Chris Mullineux en ik heb ervoor gezorgd dat ik de Nederlandse importeur ben geworden. Nu al volgen de zeer goede beoordelingen terwijl ik had verwacht dat dat nog een of twee jaar zou duren. Gisteren zijn de topscorers (vijf sterren) uit de Platter gids bekend geworden. De straw wine kreeg die hoogste score. En vanmorgen mailde een klant een stuk van Neal Martin van de Parker website (heb zelf geen toegang). Een kleine selectie:

So finally, a face off between the Mullineux Family Wines Straw Wine 2008 and the legendary Chateau d’Yquem 1986.

Do not get me wrong, I think that the Sauternes is a great wine, although perhaps not in the same league as either the 1989 or 1990. Intense honeyed aromas, citrus fruits, apricot and quince on the nose, the palate is powerful and unctuous, yet is struck with a linearity that I cannot avoid. “Formulaic” would be too strong and far too much of a pejorative word, but it does not quite trigger the emotional response that other Yquems are prone to, almost as if greatness was taken as given?

Perhaps it was naive to pour the Swartland Straw Wine against this wine, but there was no need to worry. It was a pertinent reminder that when you appraise what is in the glass rather than on the label, the New World can challenge the Old...at a fraction of the price. This pure Chenin Blanc was cropped at 23-24 Brix, delivers 10.2% ABV and a whopping 295 grams residual, but numbers aside, what really merited such a quasi-eulogistic response was that the residual sugar was barely noticeable thanks to the acidity the sliced through the wine like a scalpel, leaving the palate tingling with glee and suggesting another sip without delay.
None of us around the table had tasted the wine previously and the general response was something along the lines of: “F**king hell, that’s good.”
Excuse the vernacular.

1986 Château d’Yquem 95
I used to prefer this to the 1990 although now I feel they are more on a level pegging. The bouquet has a riveting intensity to it with clear honey, fresh apricots, nectarine and a touch of barley sugar. Brilliant definition. The palate if fresh and beautifully poised with a citrus entry and a lingering viscous, botrytis-rich core of fruit. Just a hint of ginger and dried pineapple developing with time. Yet I temper my score a little because unlike other vintages, this vintage has a sense of linearity, does not burst into pyrotechnics on the finish like the 1989 or 1990. A lovely Yquem no doubt, one that should last decades, but I hope it develops just a little more character. Drink now-2050. Tasted March 2009.

2008 Mullineux Family Wines Straw Wine 96
Poured alongside Yquem ’86 no less, this debut straw wine from Chris Mullineux was equal in stature…it’s that good. Pure Chenin Blanc cropped at 23-24 Brix, coming in at 10.2% ABV and 295 grams residual, it has a deep auburn colour. The nose is spellbinding with apricot, a touch of barley sugar, quince and a touch of lanolin. Wonderful balance on the unctuous palate but suffused with a degree of tension that so few sweet wines can pull off. Succulent apricot, honey and tangerine on the mellifluous finish. Pure and vibrant. This represents a show-stopping debut. Drink now-2020+ Tasted March 2009.

Als laatste een email van Chris vanmorgen:
Incidentally we also heard yesterday that the Straw Wine will get 91
points, and the Syrah 90 points in the September edition of the Wine
Spectator. All is coming along!
Ik ben blij, maar kan me voorstellen dat je als wijnmaker helemaal een gat in de lucht springt.

En over twee weken zijn Chris en zijn vrouw Andrea ook nog in het land, leuk!