Artikel van http://www.jancisrobinson.com van 29 mei 2009:
SCALI, Voor Paardeberg
Small family business, now in its fifth generation, owned and run by Willie and Tania de Waal. Voor Paardeberg, officially a ward or subregion of Paarl though possibly more appropriately grouped with the best terroirs of Swartland, has just eight producers, mostly small scale and focusing on the Mediterranean varieties suited to the climate and the shale and decomposed granite soils. Total production 2000 c/s, of which 93% is exported.
http://www.scali.co.za/index.html
Scali Blanc 2007 Voor Paardeberg 17.5+ Drink 2009-12
5000 bottles produced. 70% Chenin, 20% Chardonnay, 10% Viognier. Chenin vines are 40+ years old and yield less than a kilo per vine. Basket pressed. Chenin fermented in open-top fermenters after three days’ skin contact. Aged in French oak (not new) for 12 months on lees. The Chardonnay is barrique fermented. Blended late. Unfiltered. Some raisined grapes but no bortytis – the skin contact was originally intended simply to rehydrate the raisins but then the fermentation started...
Funky ripe yellow fruit on the nose. Strong green yellow wine with natural wine character. Mineral, grip, but rich and powerful and full of flavour but still fresh. Weighted mid palate (4 g/l RS) but no single flavour that dominates. Almost a sour aftertaste. So complex. Oxidative style and needs decanting. Intense and long. pH 3.63, TA 6 g/l, RS 4.2 g/l, 14.5% (JH)
Scali Pinotage 2005 Voor Paardeberg 17.5+ Drink 2009-11
From two sites, one planted in 1972. Both with notable clay content but also granite and shale. Max yields 24 hl/ha ‘and this is what makes all the difference’, said owner/winemaker Willi de Waal. Fermented in open-top oak vats. Seven days’ pre-fermentation maceration at up to 10 °C under CO2 blanket – blocks of dry ice punched down to the bottom of the vat. Ambient yeasts and pigeage. Seven to 14 days’ post-fermentation maceration. Basked pressed to barrique for malo. Aged 12 months in barrique, 50% new. Six months on lees. Unfined and unfiltered.
Fresh spicy dark berries. Very fresh and lots of the Pinot red fruit character of the variety’s parent. Silky, fresh, dry and fine, almost delicate on the mid palate but then dense and finely grippy on the finish. Fragrant and one of the best Pinotages I have tasted thanks to that combination of even phenolic ripeness and delicacy of aroma. (Pinotage flowers over a long period so you tend to get over- and underripe fruit at harvest and you have to avoid the early and late fruit.) Like a grippy version of Pinot Noir. pH 3.8, TA 5.9 g/l, RS 1.7 g/l, 14.5% (JH)
Scali Syrah 2005 Voor Paardeberg 17.5 Drink 2009-15
Vines planted 1997 on decomposed granite and gravel on shale. Yields limited to 24 hl/ha. Same winemaking as for the Pinotage but aged for 24 months: 12 months in new and second fill French barriques, 12 months in older barriques. Unfined and unfiltered.
Rich, firm, dark and fine grained but so fresh. A tender earthiness – like very fine dark earth. Dark and savoury and fine with light herbal and peppery notes. Such fine, refreshing tannins. Very long and restrained. Beautifully textured. pH 3.73, TA 5.95 g/l, FS 1.83 g/l,14.5% (JH)
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