Jancis Robinson over Chris Mullineux

I am including an extended profile of this producer, partly because I am particularly impressed by their wines and paratly because purple pager Keith Prothero, who has a stake in the enterprise, has been so keen to see coverage of Chris and Andrea Mullineux (their son is seen below, in early exposure to his parents' work). I have now tasted some of these wines three times and am a big fan of the whites. The red seems a work in progress to me.

Here's Berry Bros' blurb about the outfit:

Mullineux Family Wines is based in Swartland, South Africa, an area that has traditionally been overlooked as a region capable of producing great wine, but this is rapidly changing. Winemakers Chris and Andrea follow a natural, minimalist approach in the vineyards and cellar (not so minimalist when styling photographes of their son - see picture). They work closely with a select group of growers who follow sustainable, reasoned farming practices. In the cellar, apart from minimal amounts of sulphur, nothing is added to, or removed from, the wine. They do not make use of any yeasts, acids, tannins, enzymes, or fining and filtering agents. The winemaking is focused on what they believe the Swartland does best, and produce just three wines: the barrel-fermented white blend of Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Viognier; a Syrah; and a super-rich straw wine made from air-dried Chenin Blanc, fermented and matured in old barriques.

Mullineux, White 2008 Swartland 17 Drink 2009-12
Extremely tangy but deep and satisfying and wild. Very special wine. Firm and bone dry with lots of honey and interest tucked in there. Though the acid seems quite low? Third tasting note: 'Rich and tangy and SO full of life! Wonderfully long. Exceptional. 13.5%
£13.95 BBR, Swig

Mullineux, Straw Wine 2008 Swartland 17.5 Drink 2009-13
Delicious tarte tatin juice with great tang, made from air-dried Chenin. 10.5%

Mullineux Syrah 2008 Swartland 16 Drink 2010-14
Sourced from nine different vineyards, matured in second- and third-fill demi-muids. A little cool and dumb. Certainly better than the average SA Syrah but there just seems to be a little hole on the mid palate. This seemed a bit sweet and earthy when I first tasted it. My third tasting note says 'Sweet and subtle in an SA context with quite robust tannins but it doesn't really stand up in terms of value when tasted alongside a good French Syrah. 13.5%
£16.50 BBR, Swig

En hier de lijst met alle favorieten van Jancis, drie ervan importeer ik:

A A Badenhorst, Red 2006 and Secateurs Chenin Blanc 2009 Swartland

Akkerdal, Kallie's Dream 2005 Franschhoek

Alkmaar, The Old School 2005 Wellington

Ataraxia Chardonnay 2008 Walker Bay

Bizoe, Henrietta Semillon/Sauvignon 2008 Franschhoek

Boekenhoutskloof, The Journeyman 2007 Franschhoek

Crystallum, Cuvée Cinema Pinot Noir 2008 Walker Bay

De Morgenzon Chenin Blanc 2007 Stellenbosch

Neil Ellis, Vineyard Selection Grenache 2007 Piekenierskloof

Emineo, Liber I 2006 Durbanville

Haskell Vineyards, Pillars and Aeon Shiraz 2007 Stellenbosch

Mullineux, White Blend and Straw Wine 2008 Swartland

Quoin Rock, Simonsberg Oculus 2007 Stellenbosch

Raats Family Cabernet Franc 2007 Stellenbosch

Sadie Family, Palladius 2007/8 Swartland

Scali Pinotage 2005 Voor Paardeberg

Stark Condé, Three Pines Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Jonkershoek Valley

Vondeling, Babiana White Blend 2006 Voor Paarderberg

Waterkloof Sauvignon Blanc 2008 Stellenbosch